I am a big fan of Pacific Northwest wines from Oregon and Washington to British Columbia, Canada, where the Okanagan Valley, Similkameen and the Thompson Valley have been quietly perfecting their craft for decades now. I have visited Washington state a few times, and it is clear it has a terroir that is quite wonderful for agriculture in general and premier wine production in particular.
Still, the wine world continues to throw surprises my way, and Washington state is no exception. Indeed, there is one section in the southeast corner of the state that is producing some exceptional wines. The Red Mountain American Viticultural Area is comprised of 54 vineyards covering 2,300 acres. There is only about 7 inches of rain annually with almost none during the growing season. The soil is dusty and desert-like, creating another stressing agent on the vines that helps add flavor and nuance to the grapes.
I recently came home to find a box of different wines from Hedges Family Estate, whose engaging story I had to pursue. Tom Hedges was a career produce purveyor working for different operations around the world. He was pursuing a master’s degree in international business in Guadalajara, Mexico, where, in 1975, he met his future wife, Annie-Marie Liégeois ,who was at the same college, studying language. She came from a small rural town in the heart of the Champagne region and had that French wine awareness instilled early.
They married a year later in a 12th-century church in Champagne. In 1987, Tom was asked to produce a Washington state wine for sale in Sweden and with that, a winery was born. In 1989 the couple purchased 50 acres on Red Mountain and promptly planted 40 acres in vines. They have since expanded by buying some established vineyards. Today they are in 45 different states and in 15 foreign countries.
Tom and Annie-Marie have two adult children both actively involved with the day-to-day needs of the winery. Their son Christophe is now president of global sales,while daughter Sarah Hedges Goedhart has risen to the role of director of winemaking. It is truly a family operation begun with an idea, some passion and hard work. In 2001, the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF) recognized Red Mountain as an established AVA after the Hedges Family petitioned it to formalize the region and give it an added imprimatur.
Hedges Family Cellars is certified organic and farms biodynamically. No pesticides, herbicides or artificial fertilizers are allowed in the vineyards. The micro rainfall and desert-like conditions allow for low mildew or fungal pressures that might need control measures.
I used my Coravin – the Coravin system inserts a thin, hollow needle through the cork to extract wine from the bottle – to taste these wines over several different nights. The Red Mountain AVA produces mostly red wines, but the first wine I tasted was a white wine, the 2023 Red Mountain Le Blanc. The label had no information about the grapes, but the QR code indicated this wine was a blend of Marsanne and Viognier. It showed pleasant floral notes with grippy citrus and hints of pineapple. It is smooth and just might be a wine to try when you are thinking outside the box. Next, I tasted the 2023 Hedges Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is blackberry dominant with hints of blueberry. It is fermented with wild indigenous yeasts and had a distinct cinnamon finish. At $40, this wine is a satisfying, pleasant experience.
Washington state is known for being a perfect growing area for Syrah, and the 2020 Red Mountain Syrah Les Gosses Vineyard ($40) is a masterpiece. It opened with great enticing aromatics and showed lively dark fruit. It is 100% Syrah and is brilliantly smooth. If you haven’t yet tasted a Washington state Syrah, this is a perfect place to start.
My next wine was the 2019 Hedges La Haute Cuvée Limited Production. At $75 and at 13.5% ABV (alcohol by volume), this just might be a special wine for a holiday table. This Cabernet Sauvignon delivered bright red fruit and pomegranate with great integrated spice. It suggested a high-end Bordeaux with its seductive smoothness. My final wine was the 2019 Red Mountain Voix de la Vigne Cabernet Franc. Also presented at 13.5% ABV, this is a big, hearty, mouth-filling red with dark fruit like blackberries and hints of fennel and allspice on the finish.
I had a Zoom call with winemaker Sarah Goedhart. She became winemaking director in 2015, so she has had a decade to see what time will do to some of her decisions. She is lively, forthright and couldn’t represent the family better in its successful pursuit of the American Dream. As holidays approach, look for these wines here. There is a video that shows the land, the vineyards, the environment and the family. Hedges Family Estate welcomes guests for tours and tastings. If you happen to be in the area, stop in to say, “Hi.”
