They say “it’s a dog’s life” — meaning a short, unhappy existence – but brewer and restaurateur Zach Goldstein has given Miles the Poodle, his childhood pooch, a lease on a longer, merry one in the name of his North White Plains restaurant.
Opened in November 2023, Miles, The Prince not only immortalizes the dog; it expresses Goldstein’s passions – sophisticated, beautifully prepared New American fare and beer, in all its beguiling complexity – resulting in the happy marriage of the two. Goldstein’s résumé includes a diploma from the British Brewing Co. in England, long experience at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s ABC Cocina, time spent at the Stone Brewing Co. in Escondido, California, and a stint as restaurant manager at Eataly in New York City.
“They enticed me, because they had a brewery at their rooftop restaurant,” he said of the last. “Miles is the culmination of my background.”
Dogs rule the roost, to muddle a farmyard metaphor. House-brewed beers include Tig, a Belgian-style table beer named for his current dog, a black English Cocker Spaniel; Bo, a stronger, classic Belgian style saison (pastoral ale) named for another of Goldstein’s Poodles growing up; Trudy, a Dortmunder export lager (yet another Poodle); and Otis, a West Coast IPA – named for a mutt the family rescued from Louisiana. “He has some coyote in him,” threw in the deadpan Goldstein.
The restaurant’s executive chef is Alessandro Urbisci, a first-generation Italian-American whose fondest memories were spent in the kitchen and around the dinner table. From his current, highly seasonal menu, starters of baby artichokes with caper salsa verde, grits and crispy potato, or fig and ricotta toast with rosemary honey and Marcona almonds show delectable creativity and cohesion. It’s echoed in elegantly conceived mains like roast chicken with stone fruit chutney and ancient grains or black sea bass with miso braised cabbage, dashi and chili oil – all dishes, incidentally, that pair exceptionally well with selected beers.
Dana Lawrie, an industry veteran with experience at Jean-Georges and McNally restaurants, is the director of hospitality and leads the beverage program. She has built a wine list to feature lesser-known grape varietals. Cocktails, devised with reference to the kitchen, rotate often and focus on seasonal ingredients.
The restaurant comprises a 45-seat first floor dining room on the upper level and a state-of the-art brewery. Designed by New York City architects Wid Chapman with Saint Urbain creating the branding aesthetic, the restaurant feels more Cobble Hill – or Notting Hill – than North White Plains. (Both firms, by the by, said Goldstein, “were wonderful to work with.”)
With Miles’ beers already available for purchase in DeCicco & Sons markets and a handful of outlets around Westchester County, Goldstein said he wants to integrate the restaurant vertically as much as possible. In an industry in which costs rise and tastes change quickly, he believes that having a brand with a diverse product line will have more flexibility and long-term success. “That could mean a variety of other businesses in food and hospitality, like a distillery, farm or coffee roaster,” he added.
Like his smooth and polished restaurant, Goldstein himself exudes a distinct, cultured, laid-back style, wearing a well-cut suit for restaurant service. “I dress like that not only for our guests but to mentally prepare for the evening,” he said. “I know that when I put on the suit, I’m ready to lead with warmth.” He likes simple colors and clean lines and mentions that his two favorite suits are dark green and maroon.
“They are both fun in a way but, like the Miles, The Prince brand, they also present something higher end.”
For more, visit milestheprince.com.
