It”™s the most wonderful time of the year, or at least it can be, as long as you don”™t have to do all the cooking and the washing-up. If you have slaved in the kitchen through Christmas, or perhaps have had one more drink than was entirely sensible seeing out the old year, here are some suggestions for a relaxing, restorative New Year”™s Day brunch:
There are still reservations available for a late Jan. 1 lunch at Jean-Georges Vongerichten”™s Inn at Pound Ridge, a restaurant that is as enchanting when the snow is on the ground as it is at the height of summer. All the usual brunch suspects await ”” buttermilk pancakes, eggs Benedict ”” as well as some less usual ones, like Jean-Georges”™ signature black truffle and fontina pizza. But usual or unusual, no restaurant delivers with as much panache as Jean-Georges”™ always welcoming, always “in” inn.
At The Wheel”¯in”¯Stamford, where every lunch and dinner service feels like a party but the sympathetic acoustics mean you can make yourself heard above the general hubbub, the staff will be serving brunch as well as dinner on New Year”™s Day. A dozen East Coast oysters followed by braised short-rib hash would seem like a civilized start to anyone”™s new year. The Wheel also has an excellent cocktail program. Cozy up to the bartenders and, although not on the list, have them whisk you up a prairie oyster, the traditional hangover ”” sorry, “morning after” ”” cure.
Speaking of mornings after, and I do so love a euphemism, I won”™t say that the carbohydrate fix of pasta is just what the doctor ordered, but I will mention that I”™m a great fan of Rosina”™s in Greenwich, which does a first-rate lasagna and an equally fine pappardelle Bolognese. There”™s a great drinks program, too, run by celebrity local mixologist Juan Meyer. If I stop by on New Year”™s morning, which I am very likely to do, I”™ll barely be able to resist a Vintage Negroni (in which Carpano Antica vermouth is the wizard ingredient). But I”™ll be equally tempted by a Fernet-Branca on the rocks. Fernet, of course, is the Italian amaro that sorts “the men from the boys,” as they used to say, and is the acknowledged king of “morning after” cures.
Still with the morning tremblies, two of the specialties at Irvington”™s highly regarded Indian restaurant, Chutney Masala Indian Bistro ”” a soothing chicken masala or a blow-your-head-off lamb vindaloo ”” are well-known remedies for any previous night”™s overindulgence. It”™s also heartening to note that at a time when restaurateurs themselves are struggling, Chutney Masala contributes to a number of local charities, including Feeding Westchester and Food Across America.
If curry is not your bag, think “clean” Japanese cuisine instead. Raw or barely cooked fish or shellfish is a great way to detox. Hinoki, the sophisticated Greenwich restaurant that I glowingly reviewed earlier this year, https://www.wagmag.com/good-eats-on-the-avenue/ does a wonderful black cod served with miso soup at lunchtime and the sushi and sashimi, always piningly fresh, is second to none. Favorites ”” if I must: The fatty tuna is superb, and it is peak season right now for uni (sea urchin), either Japanese or Californian. And do remember that sake, crystal clear and preferably drunk cold, is much lower in potency than you might imagine: At around 40%, it is less than half the proof of gin or whiskey. Drink and enjoy.
A bountiful seafood paella, heady with saffron, strikes me as an elegant dish with which to start the year. That”™s what you”™ll find at La Plage, the restaurant at the Inn at Longshore in Westport, along with dishes like grilled seafood salad (sounds odd, but works) and a luxurious crab cake Benedict, all with a view of the sea, the sea, the beautiful sea”” captivating even in winter.
It may be winter in the Northeast but in Mexico and central America it”™s sizzling right now. So, too, is the scene ”” and at least half the menu ”” at Happy Monkey in Greenwich ”” Jean-Georges”™ other restaurant in our area, which opened to great aplomb in July 2022. https://westfaironline.com/food-beverage/jean-georges-monkey-business/ What better way to start the year than with spicy huevos rancheros, sizzling shrimp with garlic and wonderful chipotle chicken with grilled jalapeño salsa in this convivial Greenwich Avenue setting?
Finally, never knock the chains ”” especially on a holiday. With kids in tow, it”™s good to know that all branches of IHOP (International House of Pancakes) (for chocolate chip pancakes and more) and The Cheesecake Factory (for just about everything, and still good value in my view) will be open New Year”™s Day. For more urbane tastes and large appetites, meanwhile, though closed for lunch, Morton”™s the Steakhouse in White Plains will open for dinner from 5 p.m. as usual on New Year”™s Day.
A couple of martinis and a 36-ounce tomahawk ribeye to begin the year? Start as you mean to continue, I say.
For more, visit theinnatpoundridge.com; thevillagewheel.com; rosinasrestaurant.com; happymonkeygreenwich.com; chutneymasala.com; hinokigreenwich.com; laplagewestport.com; ihop.com; thecheesecakefactory.com; mortons.com.
