The Loire Valley in France is famous for its hundreds of glorious châteaux, its history, its rich agricultural production and its lifestyle. But its worldwide fame is certainly derived from its wine culture. Centuries ago, the Loire River — which divides France north-south but connects the country east-west — and its tributaries helped link the region to many commerce centers of the world. The valley is perhaps most famous historically as the site of a campaign launched by Joan of Arc (1412-31) to rid her country of the English during the Hundred Years”™ War. The river also became a semi-border during World War II with German forces north of the river and the French Resistance fighters to the south. At 625 miles long, the Loire is the longest river in France. The city of Tours there used to be the capital of the country before it was moved to Paris.
The production of wines in the Loire Valley are determined by which grapes can be properly grown in each area. The areas to the west where it spills into the Bay of Biscay off the Atlantic Ocean favor white wine. As you move east, you find RoseÌs and eventually red wines become king, although there are reds grown in the west and whites in the east. On a recent trip to the Loire, we tasted wines from all the regions, and my main takeaway was “fresh and fruity.” And to be clear, “fruity” does not necessarily mean sweet. A wine can be bone dry of residual (unfermented) or added sugars and yet can still be fruity-forward. The entire region is aware of the current trends toward drier wines, and everything we tasted showed evidence of that.
One producer, Pierre-Jean Sauvion, said, “We have the best wine region in the world. We have huge diversity. We make every style of wine. We have 33 AOPs (Appellations d’Origine Protégées), which oversee production and rules of the specific area and grape. We have 42,000 planted hectares (more than 100,000 acres). We have 24 grape varieties. And one in 10 vineyards is a UNESCO site. And we have plenty of water from the river and the ground. And then we have great weather and soil types. Yes, the best region.” Some regions lack some, or several, of these qualities, which affects production.
Cabernet Franc is an ancient grape directly descended from the Biturica grape, possibly from northern Greece, and brought to northern Spain and then to Southern France and on to Bordeaux and the Loire Valley. Cabernet Franc”™s descendants include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and CarmeneÌ€re. But Cabernet Franc is used almost exclusively worldwide as a blending grape in various percentages. In the Loire Valley, it is used almost exclusively as a single grape varietal wine. And it can be, and often is, magnificent. The Loire Valley and Bordeaux are responsible for 73% of the world”™s Cab Franc production. I had the opportunity to taste many Cab Francs in the Loire, and I don”™t remember seeing any that were blended wines.
Each AOC protected Cabernet Franc-producing region within the Loire creates a wine uniquely different in color and taste, depending on soil type, altitude, sun orientation, specific latitude and winemaking style. The Cab Franc subregions within the Loire, Bourgueil, Chinon, Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil, Saumur-Champigny, Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame and Saumur offer different styles leaning toward either red-fruit dominant (cherry/raspberry/rose petals) or dark-fruit dominant (blackberry/cassis/violets).
And as in many of the wine regions of the world, the winemakers are moving toward ecologically sustainable and organic products in various amplitudes. Depending on where you source your wines, specific Loire producers may be hard to locate. But any reasonably stocked store should have several options of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. Ask the owner or knowledgeable store clerk to guide you to some personal favorites that can become your future conversation centerpiece.
One further comment on these Loire Valley red wines: They are stand-alone great or abundantly food-friendly. You could initiate a gathering with a brighter fruitier wine and morph to a darker, more contemplative wine with food. You could even decant and play “guess the grape.” Now that would be an evening I would remember.
Write me at doug@dougpaulding.com.
