Years ago, I took a Viking River Cruise through Germany, and I’ll never forget it, the lovely rooms, the itinerary and excursions, the to-die-for-cuisine and, best of all, the silken service and cashmere care provided by the staff. So my husband Bill and I decided to take an extended ocean cruise on Viking. After all, Viking Cruises is an award-winning luxury brand that both Travel+Leisure and Conde Nast Traveler have named the “World’s Best Ocean Cruise Line” on more than one occasion. And I’m happy to report that our experience on Viking more than lived up to those expectations.
We sailed on the Viking Mars for 15 days from Barcelona, Spain, to Bergen, Norway. And we highly recommend an extended itinerary, as do most of the sophisticated cruisers that we meet. Given the advance planning that it takes for weeks before you depart for a cruise, it doesn’t make sense to sail only for a week. Three days into it, just when you get your bearings, you start to receive your disembark notices not good. Opt for the extended itinerary.
If you’re a reader of my travel pieces, then you know I love an all-inclusive package, which Viking does not provide. But it has other advantages that set it apart. When we boarded, I heard those three little words that everyone craves to hear, no, not “I love you,” but the next-best thing: “You’ve been upgraded” (to a junior penthouse suite). Ah, music to my ears.
There was more “music” when we met our Balinese room attendant, Kharisma, who in her sweet voice told us, “We are here to pamper you.”
Comfort zones
Viking prides itself on casual elegance and luxury without any pretentiousness, or as one staff member told me, “We strive to exceed your expectations,” but in a low-key way. Here passengers didn’t really dress to the nines. It was more sixes and sevens. There were no formal nights, no casino, no kitschy umbrella drinks. And no kids under 18 allowed.
And just as there was no kitsch, there was no redundant tech. Torstein Hagen, CEO of the family-run Viking, has insisted that the remote for the suite TVs be as easy to use as possible. The unit simply turned on and off and had an up and down for volume and channels.
The accommodations (only 930 guests in 465 staterooms) extended the ship’s relaxed comfort with soothing modern decor. Our suite featured two huge TV screens, one for each room, along with a pull-out fridge stocked with chocolate, trail mix and beverages; snuggy Norwegian blankets; a desk; a bathroom with two sinks, a shower, a heated floor, robes, satin hangers, posh German Freyja amenities, and much more.
The Liv Nordic spa offered another area of calming indulgence. It was a blissful oasis with its wide variety of massages and facials, a sauna, a generous pool, lounge chairs and an ice room.
Where culture is king
This hygge atmosphere, from the Norwegian word for cozy conviviality, pronounced “WHO guh”, was all in service of education through travel, which Viking promotes in its commercials as a “proud sponsor” of PBS Masterpiece” series. This was a thinking person’s cruise.
While there was no library, bookcases filled with volumes were scattered throughout the many decks, so you could pick up a good read almost anywhere onboard. “Movies Under the Stars” were often held on the pool deck, which had a retractable roof, along with videos such as the “Journeys in Music With the National Symphony Orchestra,” under the baton of Debbie Wiseman at London’s Cadogan Hall. (Blankets were provided, which was a good thing, as I found the ship chilly at times, though by day you could enjoy the sunshine under that same retractable roof or take in the sights by the smaller infinity pool near the World Caf.)
There was no meaningless hotel “art” on the walls. Instead, guests enjoyed photographs of iconic global sights and serene, wide-open, light-filled Scandinavian-designed spaces as well as scenes of other “voyages.” Many walls, for example, contained reproductions of the “Bayeux Tapestry” that illustrated the Norman invasion of England in 1066. Dining was destination-focused, and the ship spent more time in port so that you could soak up the local atmosphere. As the cruise line’s marketing materials state, “We do not try to be all things to all people.” Instead, culture is king.
Added to that were the excellent lectures on a wide variety of topics. Two that we especially enjoyed on our journey were given by a retired American general, Joe Shaefer. One was about the under-the-radar “Operation Mincemeat” during World War II (also the name of a fine movie with Colin Firth), and the other was all about heroines of the French Resistance, including Nancy Wake. (Her biography, “The White Mouse,” is definitely worth reading.)
In the ship’s atrium, a lovely pianist from Ukraine caressed the keys as she offered classical favorites and a wealth of requests. Music is a big part of the Viking experience, and along with the pianist, there was also an excellent string duet that played daily in the atrium, which was graced by a huge digital screen at the top of the staircase, highlighting cultural points of each port visited.
Fine cuisine
Food for thought accompanied good food. Most times at dinner, we opted for the World Cafe, with its ever-changing, impressive menu of selections. I have to say just about every morsel I ate on this cruise was mouthwatering and memorable, whether it was a simple salad with balsamic dressing, salmon Coulibiac, homemade gelato or chocolate-infused pumpkin bread. Every night had a different theme, be it Portuguese, French or seafood, and there was always more than enough to satisfy even the most persnickety palate. On other nights, there were even extra-special offerings such as lobster and foie gras.
My only complaint was that the lunches tended to be heavy, with carved meats and sauces where I would have recommended lighter fare such as roll ups, protein and quinoa bowls and perhaps some panini. Still, at lunch I special-ordered hummus whenever I wanted and typically went for the grilled shrimp that were always available. Those and the special-ordered Nutella gelato were always hits in my book.
To celebrate our wedding anniversary one night at The Restaurant, I special-ordered a meal that was one of the most fantastic dinners of my life. It started with a walnut-cranberry salad with an aged balsamic reduction, followed by house-made wild mushroom ravioli in cream sauce, topped by grilled swordfish encrusted with tarragon and a low-fat ratatouille. For dessert, the chef made us Nutella crepes, plus a low-fat carrot cake, while the pastry chef made me my favorite Viennese truffles of light and dark Valrhona chocolate and hazelnut praline. It was so good, I ordered the entire meal for a second time on another night. If I ever appeared on the Food Network show “The Best Thing I Ever Ate,” this fine-dining experience would be it.
Another dining option was Manfredi’s, the ship’s Italian venue that required reservations, and there was also a Chef’s Table restaurant where wine was paired with your meal. Fussy eaters that we are, we went to Manfredi’s a few times and savored every bite. Impressively, there was no extra charge to visit the specialty restaurants onboard.
We normally don’t drink alcohol, but I can report that the wines and spirits offerings were extensive. I did have some dessert wine, a Moscato D’ Asti that was $8 a glass if you were not on the Silver Spirits package, and it was indeed a treat.
In good company
I haven’t even mentioned some of the other big and small things that make a Viking ship so special. The Nordic theme was carried out throughout the ship, with Viking artifacts; all kinds of fun facts outlined in the daily newsletter; and even a specialty boutique filled with beautiful Norwegian items — I had my eye on a Norwegian ice-blue raincoat, and adorable little books starring Finse, Viking’s white Labrador mascot, whose adventures children delight in.
That boutique was one of the many spaces were the spirit of community was present onboard. A large gym with three rooms where you could get the job done, a dance party under the stars, even the sounds in the public restrooms of birds chirping: All of these offered proof that in my life as a travel journalist, I am truly blessed. If you decide on a Viking ocean cruise, you will be, too.
For more, click here. www.vikingcruises.com. And follow me on Instagram at @DebbiKickham.
William D. Kickham contributed to the reporting of this story.
