In the well-ordered heart of downtown Fairfield, where Post Road and Unquowa Road meet and the imposing Chase Bank and Bank of America buildings stare each other down across the busy intersection like adversarial old matrons, a newcomer from Down Under (by way of Brooklyn) has raised its head.
Equitably sharing a large slice of corner sidewalk with the Old Post Tavern ”“ and with Fairfield”™s Community Theater sandwiched between the two ”“ Isla & Co., a hip but genial new café with Australian roots launched here in late June. With branches already established in West Palm Beach, Atlanta, Dallas and yes, Brooklyn, Fairfield might seem like a random new location for the burgeoning brasserie (as it styles itself,) yet Isla ”“ whose founder, Barry Dry, along with his two key colleagues are all Australian ”“ already feels like a perfection addition to this easy-going, affluent Connecticut college town, one which is not short of cafés and restaurants.
The brasserie itself is compact, just 24 covers in a bright and airy interior, although the expansive outdoor terrace nearly triples that capacity. (Let”™s hope for effective patio heaters as the weather cools.) A well-lit and inviting long bar runs the length of the back wall and bare brick, faux-marble table tops, hanging plants and framed photographs ”“ subjects as diverse as artily arranged coffee cups, a beach shack, a solitary gum tree ”“ form the decoration. This gives Isla a cool-California meets optimistic-Aussie vibe, without being so obviously on-trend as to frighten the horses.
This eclectic style is mirrored in the food, a sort of “let”™s-raid-the-world”™s-larder” type menu, not so much ”˜fusion” as the combining of heterogenous but complementary ingredients. Of the many dishes we sampled over a couple of visits, from the daily brunch menu we particularly enjoyed burrata with sumac and pickled chilis, as well as a dish of smashed avocado toast with corn, feta tomato and almond dukkah (an Egyptian nut and spice condiment). We also rated the Brekkie roll ”“ soft scrambled eggs with white cheddar and bacon ”“ a recherche du temps perdu taste of Australia in a brioche bun. There is also a hamburger and Isla Benedicts, as they”™re called, which come three ways. That is to say, with lox, with avocado and peperonata, or with pulled pork, all served on toasted sourdough rather than a more traditional ”“ at least in this country ”“ English muffin.
On the dinner menu, served daily from 5:00 p.m., there were plaudits for steamed clams with n”™duja and sausage rolls with a plucky chili sauce. Fish and chips with yuzu kosho (fermented chili) tartar sauce and spicy Thai green curry are both ripper.
Back to its Aussie theme, Vegemite comes as a side dish ”“ you”™ll pay $3 for the privilege ”“ but there”™s not a lamington (famous Australian chocolate-coated sponge cake) in sight. An Aussie vanilla slice, comprising puff pastry with blackberries, or a sticky date pudding with whipped mascarpone must suffice instead. And they more than do.
In the drinks department, the short wine list offers a few reliable bins at $50 or under, but I would have enjoyed seeing one or two Aussie Chardonnays or a mention of that country”™s beloved “Cab Sav”, to really get into the groove. There is perhaps a better choice for the cocktail drinker, with both “signature” and “classics” offered, some, like the Mimosa, served in a champagne coupe.
While I found the service to be utterly sweet and well-intentioned, dishes were often slow to arrive, and the non-stop, near mechanical “how is everything?” check-back began, after a while, to get my goat (as Australians might say).
That said, it”™s early days yet for this stylish newb and with so many elements crucially sound, once feet have been found and the young staff acquires more confidence, I”™d think Isla & Co. is going to be terrific. Or, put another way, fair dinkum.
For more information and dinner reservations (brunch is walk-ins only), visit isla-co.com.
