I have always been obsessed with Broadway musicals. As a teen, I would spend hours sitting at our family piano playing hit songs from a collection of Reader”™s Digest Music Books my father gave me. Like my family, each book had its own unique personality. If my mother was in one of her crazy tap dancing moods, she wanted “something from 42nd Street.” If my father was in a romantic or sentimental mood, he would say, “Play a little Frank Sinatra.” If my brothers and sisters just watched the TV movie “The Sound of Music,” they requested Rodgers and Hammerstein.
As a result, I will unconsciously assign any happy occasion or any extraordinary person(s) to a Broadway tune.
This was my thought process the first time I sat down and chatted with Errico Auricchio, the founder of Wisconsin-based BelGioioso Cheese Co. (pronounced bel-joy-oso). I envisioned Auricchio ”“ tall and strapping ”“ on center stage, belting out “The Impossible Dream,” the theme song from “Man of La Mancha.”
Born in Naples, Italy, Auricchio was raised by a family of artisan cheesemakers dating back more than a century. However in 1979, leaving his beloved town of Cremona behind, Auricchio packed his bags, gathered his family and headed for the U.S. to fulfill his “glorious quest” ”“ to reproduce a line of artisanal cheeses that would be unique in flavor, looked authentic and would represent his homeland.
“But why did you settle in Denmark, Wisc.?” I said. “Did you want to be near Lambeau (Field) stadium and rub elbows with the Green Bay Packers?”
“No,” he said and laughed. “After visiting many states, I decided Wisconsin was the best place to make cheese because of the close proximity to the cows. Then, I visited dairy communities all over the state and decided Green Bay had similar characteristics to northern Italy to produce the heritage cheeses I grew up with ”“ parmesan, provolone and gorgonzola.”
In Auricchio”™s private office, a magnificent portrait of his grandfather hangs on the wall. He is nestled in the family villa garden. At first, I was a little intimidated by its colossal size. (I felt like I was being attacked by one of BelGioioso”™s 300-pound hanging provolones!) However, remembering the proverb “A picture is worth a thousand words,” I regained my composure and decided to study the portrait. I was mesmerized by the intensity in his grandfather”™s deep, passionate, brown eyes. They sparkled, yearning to say: “We come from generations of cheesemaking experts. We are committed to quality and consistency.”
And from the expression on his face, I observed strength, perseverance and pride ”“ the same qualities he passed on to his grandson.
Over the last 10 years, I have had the privilege of meeting Auricchio countless times and touring all six cheese facilities located in the areas surrounding Denmark and Pulaski, Wisc. Each plant specializes in a specific cheese that is produced there daily by the same cheesemakers. The equipment and technology are state-of-the-art and the BelGioioso employees are proud, hardworking and extremely savvy.
In addition, Auricchio has two certified master Italian cheesemakers, a multitude of temperature-controlled aging rooms and walls covered with prestigious awards from the American Cheese Society, the World Championship Cheese Contest and the U.S. Cheese Contest.
This past July, the American Cheese Society hosted its annual conference and competition in Chicago, Ill. Hundreds of artisan cheeses were judged from all over the U.S. BelGioioso won a first-place ribbon for its handmade, all natural, fresh mozzarella wrapped in Citterio domestic prosciutto. After tasting the mozzarella roll, I agreed. The quality of the prosciutto is mouth-watering and the freshness of the cheese ”“ amazing.
Auricchio”™s collection of crown jewels includes a line of table cheeses like Asiago, Parmesan and American Grana as well as an assortment of fresh cheeses like burrata, stracchino and the company”™s famous crema di mascarpone. For parties, I like to serve peperoncino, an aged Asiago with the addition of red pepper flakes. It tastes hot and zesty!
Many wonderful things have happened for Auricchio since his arrival and first production of sharp provolone some 29 years ago, but he is a man who gives back. He is known to be a philanthropist. For example, in 2003, when milk prices were at a low, Auricchio offered the farmers who supply milk to BelGioioso an extra bonus check at the end of the year. In 1990, Auricchio and his wife, Patrizia, hosted a luncheon for the late Julia Child to celebrate the new Wisconsin Chapter of the American Institute of Food and Wine, which Child co-founded. The list goes on and on.
“Cheese and food are my life. However, for recreation I love to race bicycles. With my helmet and shorts on, I think I resemble Lance Armstrong, only slower!” he said.
Note: BelGioioso cheeses can be purchased in Super Stop & Shop, Food Emporium, Restaurant Depot and many Italian specialty shops in Fairfield County and the region. For information, visit www.belgioioso.com.
Nancy Dacey of Ridgefield has more than 22 years of experience working in the food service industry. In Dishing It Out, she offers information and suggestions on an array of food-related topics. Reach her at nancyjdacey@msn.com.
