Table Talk With Jeremy Wayne: Lobster tales

As The Boston Globe reported last week, while tourist numbers have been up in Maine over the summer, tourist satisfaction has been way down. Chronic staff shortages have resulted in restaurant closures or restricted hours, and what should be a fun outing for a lobster roll has in some instances become a minefield of strategic planning. 

No matter. Here in Westfair country we have exceptional lobster joints of our own ”“ everything from fresh markets to full-service restaurants to food-trucks, shacks and stands. Here are five of the best:

 Copps Island Oyster Shack 

638 Selby”™s Pond Road, Stratford 

As the name implies, oysters ”“ shucked to order, naturally ”“ are the principal draw at the Bloom family”™s food truck, which launched last June at Brown”™s Marina in Stratford. Indeed, now a fourth-generation family business, oysters, as the slogan runs, are the Bloom family”™s passion. But wonderful as these bivalves undoubtedly are, the shack serves tremendous lobster rolls, too. Both the hot and cold rolls come filled with generous amounts of flesh ”“ and the sweetness of the lobster meat mixed with the merest touch of brininess lifts these rolls well out of the ordinary. The setting, too, right by the water, adds a further dimension to the experience. coppsislandoystershack.com 

Dobbs Ferry Lobster Guys 

26 Main St., Dobbs Ferry 

Anthony DiMeglio is a third-generation fisherman and Westchester County resident, who, post-Covid, now sells directly to the public. And his Dobbs Ferry store sells what may just be the ne plus ultra of lobster rolls, either with warm lobster meat (Connecticut style) or dressed lobster salad (Maine style). The website cheerfully advises calling ahead, “as the shop may be closed on the days Anthony is out on the water.” That probably tells you all you need to know about the provenance and freshness of these rolls. dobbsferrylobsterguys.com 

The Lobster Bin 

204 Field Point Road, Greenwich 

Lobster rolls come two ways at this takeout-only Greenwich seafood market, established in 1975 by John Tung. That”™s to say, a lobster salad served on a potato hot-dog bun or with the lobster meat sautéed. (By now, you know the drill.) But while large crustaceans may be the central focus, there”™s a great deal more on offer in the way of fish and shellfish. Look out for Key West grouper with puttanesca sauce or the swordfish kabobs if they are available on the day you visit, and bear in mind The Lobster Bin also does exceptionally fine sushi, heavenly baked clams and luxurious softshell crab. thelobsterbin.com 

The Restaurant at Rowayton Seafood 

89 Rowayton Ave., Norwalk 

Back in June, we raved about this enchanting restaurant on the Five Mile River in the pint-sized, historic village of Rowayton, which is part of Norwalk. What we did not rave about was Rowayton”™s lobster rolls, for the simple reason that at that point we hadn”™t tried them. Well, now we have, both the Rowayton and the Maine, and each in its way is glorious. The Maine comes as a cold lobster salad, which you could eat without the brioche bun, if you were counting calories. (On the other hand, who can resist that bun, with its lick of glistening butter?). The Rowayton, by contrast, showcases warm, butter poached lobster. Both are served with coleslaw, sea-salt chips or fries. In the market store right by the restaurant, you can buy a whole lobster, or pick up Rowayton”™s lobster bake (cooked or ready to cook at home) for a swellegant dinner party or just a “for-the-hell-of it” treat for one or two. rowaytonseafood.com 

Rizzuto”™s Restaurant & Bar and The Lobster Shack 

540 Riverside Ave., Westport 

You can eat lobster rolls any time at Rizzuto”™s Restaurant & Bar in the Saugatuck section of Westport. These beauties feature on both the lunch and extensive dinner menus. The Connecticut roll comes with melted butter while, as is traditional, the Maine variety is a cold lobster salad, presented here atop Boston lettuce on a toasted brioche bun. Both are pingingly fresh, vibrant and generously packed, although for outsized appetites, Rizzuto”™s also does a whopping, king-size roll with a full half-pound of lobster meat. For a less formal outing, you can stop by owner Bill Rizzuto”™s The Lobster Shack next door, which only does takeout. rizzutos.com, ctlobstershack.com