Jean-Georges’ ‘Monkey’ business

A new restaurant with a pedigree always causes a flutter of excitement on Greenwich Avenue, but a new restaurant from Jean-Georges Vongerichten ”” one of the world”™s great restaurateurs, with more than 40 restaurants to his name, spread across five continents ”” causes something of a tidal wave of interest. Say hello, then, to Greenwich”™s newest watering hole and one surely destined for greatness ”” Happy Monkey.

Already established locally with the highly-regarded Inn at Pound Ridge, Vongerichten has long eyed Greenwich as a prospective location. That should hardly be a surprise. While New York City”™s West Village is where the globe-trotting chef calls home, weekends when not on the road are spent relaxing at his country place in Waccabuc, with canoeing on nearby Whatmore”™s Lake a favorite way for him to enjoy what precious downtime he has. If for reasons of geography alone, Greenwich has long made total sense.

The new, Latin-flavored restaurant itself offers a variety of seating areas, including green velvet banquettes, booths, a communal table and regular tables with exceedingly comfortable wicker chairs, simultaneously giving the large room a certain expanse but also a coziness. And at the long bar, where the cool kids sit, the encouraging sound of cocktails being shaken only adds to the mellow soundtrack. As for the lighting, it is so soft, so sympathetic, it can make the well-put-together crowd appear even better looking than it already is.

A casual atmosphere prevails. This, of course, is typical of a Vongerichten restaurant. The Alsatian-born chef has always done “dress down” as stylishly as he has approached “dressed up.” It also makes Happy Monkey as suitable for a sophisticated evening à deux as it is for a laid-back family dinner. “Happy Monkey”™s elevated yet approachable feel makes it a go-to destination for any occasion,” says Vongerichten, whose passion for food began in his native Alsace, France, where his mother and grandmother would cook for the almost 50 employees of their family-owned business. (From there, Vongerichten would apprentice at Auberge d”™Ill and work with Paul Bocuse before heading to Asia and ultimately the United States.)

As for Happy Monkey”™s menu, the emphasis is on the freshest, locally sourced seasonal produce, featuring Latin influences across shareable snacks, small and large plates, crudos, salads, tacos and more. Yes, we are on familiar ground with some of the dishes, like arroz con pollo and grilled maitake mushroom, old friends from ABC Cocina in Manhattan. But new dishes ”” including smoked ham and manchego cheese fritters and shrimp tacos topped with spicy citrus peanut slaw ”” demonstrate that brand Vongerichten is doing more than resting on its laurels or rehashing tried and tested favorites. 

Essentially, this is a small-plates concept restaurant with “sharing” at its core, as our server explained a little pedantically. (We”™ve been “sharing” plates “family-style” for more than 15 years, after all.) Some standouts on a first and subsequent visits included fluke crudo with puffed rice and yellowfin tuna tartar, sizzling shrimp with garlic and the trusty arroz con pollo. Crispy fish taco, smothered in chipotle mayo with vinegary pickled cabbage, had lost its crispness, though, and was a less successful dish. Of the five desserts, the two chocolatey ones ”” churros with chocolate sauce and a rich cocoa “tres leches” cake, drew plaudits. If there isn”™t already an expression in Spanish to the effect that with a plate of spirally churros in front of you, all is right in the world, then there should be.

Like the food menu, the cocktail list is succinct, with the jolly inclusion of sangria and a discreet margarita menu that reflects the seasons. (So insidious was the effect of a delicious mezcal lavender negroni, I could have downed a bucketful, danced on all the tables and gone home sloshed but happier than any monkey, to face a hangover next morning.)  The wine list runs the gamut although sold as a Latin restaurant, a few more Spanish, Argentinian and Chilean names would not look out of place on this heavily France/California-leaning list. Nonalcoholic options include house-made sodas, juices and kombucha (a fermented tea).

But while there may be a few service glitches to iron out and perhaps a couple of menu tweaks still to make, no one could seriously doubt that Happy Monkey is going to be a smash hit, what with its striking Frida Kahlo mural ”” along with her pet spider monkey, a nod to the restaurant”™s name ”” its black-and-white marble floors, its rattan shades and lush hanging plants. Actually, it already is a smash hit.

And while monkeys generally may be getting a bad rap elsewhere right now, let”™s not forget how wonderful these creatures are ”” friendly, intuitive, a little mischievous and with enormous charm ”” all attributes that can be applied to this Simian newbie. A very Happy Monkey indeed. 

Happy Monkey is currently open only for dinner, Wednesdays through Sundays.

For reservations, visit happymonkeygreenwich.com.