Table Talk with Jeremy Wayne: Rolls, bowls and more at Naya

Situated in Darien Commons ”“ which until now has really been a parking lot in search of more retail outlets, residential sales and a soul but is slowly coming of age ”“ the newly-opened Naya Middle East Counter & Grill is a welcome addition.

The latest member of this best-in-class, fast-casual Lebanese group ”“ there are 18 in New York alone — offers a bright interior with faux-white bricks, faux-white tabletops and faux-cane chairs. The whole is greater than the sum of its parts, however:  With far more going for it than my “faux”-vist description suggests, the look is cheerful and inviting. So, too, is the small outdoor seating area, which, with plantings of hyssop and cherry trees ”“ along with the other areas of the Commons ”“ is doing wonders to soften the development”™s slightly Brutalist look. 

Naya”™s formula is simple. First, should you want them, you choose starters from the counter on a sort of à la carte basis. I tried hummus, tabbouleh (a kind of Levantine salad), grape leaves and labne (Lebanese cream cheese), and all were nicely done.  From the hot bites, rekakat (deep-fried phyllo wrapped cheese) and fatayer (a mini triangular pie with spinach) were the tastiest ”“ although they were not especially hot. The falafel and kibbe (fried beef dumplings with pine nuts) ”“ both perhaps sitting a little too long ”“ I”™d give a six out of 10, although in Beirut that might be nearer a two. 

Things, however, were about to move up a notch. Naya”™s selling point is their rolls, bowls and salads, with either pita (that”™s the roll), rice (the bowl) or salad (all things salad-y) serving as the base to which you add your protein, namely chicken or beef. For a rice bowl with seasonal grains, we chose beef shawarma (a vertical roast), adding pickled Lebanese cucumbers, babaganoush (a kind of eggplant dip, here rather endearingly spelled “baba ghannouj”) and green and red cabbage slaw from the 17 “unlimited” toppings that are complimentary with any “base.” The shawarma was excellent, almost sweet with a touch of cinnamon and the toppings fresh and colorful.  

Kafta lamb kebab, beef and lamb meatballs, which sat contentedly on a bed of Naya salad, delivered that instantly recognizable, distinctly Middle Eastern smoky lick. With yogurt and cucumber and pickled turnip as the add-ins, these kebabs were a finger-lickin”™ triumph. 

Less successful was chicken shish taouk, grilled marinated chicken breast in a white pita roll. Even zhuzhed up with lemon tahini, Kalamata olives and toum garlic whip, I did feel that this particular chicken ”“ the meat a little tough and tasteless ”“ may sadly have died in vain. 

But Naya was back on form with desserts. Nammoura, a cornbread-like semolina cake with a honey drizzle and a classic baklava ”“ phyllo fingers with almonds, pistachio and walnuts ”“ were beautifully done, although the sweet cake especially made me long for a soot-black Turkish coffee and a cheroot ”“ neither of which Nava was sadly going to be able to supply ”“ to enjoy all together in the Darien Commons sunshine. 

While I don”™t regularly give prices in Table Talk, I”™d be remiss not to mention that Naya”™s prices are notably reasonable. A family of four could enjoy a veritable feast here and get change from $50, which in today”™s climate ”“ and Darien — is saying something. 

One more thing: This kind of mostly finger food lends itself to takeout, and I gather Naya”™s takeout business, at least at this particular locale, is thriving.  

So, there you have it — a for-the-most-part tempting and very reasonably-priced Middle Eastern buffet served up with verve and enthusiasm in cheerful surroundings. Bon appetit or, as they say in Lebanese Arabic, Sahten!  

For more, visit eatnaya.com.